Kybyn of Traku Dvarelis

Traku Dvarelis is a mahogany and brass class of place with a black tux shirt bartender cleaning glasses with a rag when we walk in. We take a seat and get some menus. Looks like some traditional Lithuanian grub here. They have Kybyns, which are local pastries filled with various meat and veggies.


There are five kybyn, lamb, chicken, pork, veggie and lambkin, so we order all five and some beers. Our server says they are small though and suggests some soups too. Ok we’ll get a bowl of chili nad the soup of the day which is a squash and carrot. Any mains? Sheeesh I think we’re pushing it here but we put in for a Chicken Kiev and a pork steak with forest mushroom cream sauce.

The soups come out and they are huge. A meal unto themselves. Especially with the delicious bread.

The chili has a nice spice to it

Then come the kybyns and they are also much bigger than the server implied. You’ve cat to be kybyn me right meow. Ok we don’t need those mains. This is already ridiculous

Meatballs stuffed in pastries with a slight soupiness. Almost like some steamed buns I had in Taiwan but a thicker and sweeter crust.

The chili and soup are both incredibly good. Pouring soup on the kybyns is a certain magic. All of the kybyns are similar tasting, just different fillings. They’re great. Like a handheld meat pie.

Aaaand we’re stuffed before mains hit the table.

Not gonna be losing any weight on this trip. Walk 10 miles a day and make no dent. These mains are both excellent and we power through as best we can but can’t finish and end up with a box. We thank the bartender and get him to roll us out the side door.

Amazing place, we just way overdid it. Now we’re waddling uphill on the way back to the Trakai bus station. This side of the island is all nice homes w plush back yards and greenhouses. A school. Lots of families. It’s a quiet and slow paced neighborhood. With the sun setting and fall colors it could pass for a slice of residential heaven.

…until James runs up a pier and harfs right off of it blaaaaaahg. “What the fuck, dude!”, “Ahh that’s better”, “You disgust me”, “Yeah, way too full and going up that hill”, “You’re like a dog.” Right after this nonsense a police car passes us on the road. “Oh oh, they’re looking for you”, make a police radio voice, “We heard a guy blowing chunks off the pier, gonna go check it out”, “Yeeeeeah, there was a report of a fat guy doing fat guy stuff.” This cracks us up most of the way back to the bus stop.

I dodge a meat fart and get over to a broken dock for one last shot before getting on the bus.


On the bus ride back and the meat comas are coming on strong. We walk back through Vilnius to Mikalo House and chill for a bit. James totally tanks. I wake him up close to 9pm. We gotta go see this place at night and grab a pint. “I’m not up for a late one tonight, I can say that”, apply verbal eyeroll, “Alright, let’s just get over to Neon Side and come back… Oh look a metal bar”, “Right? Fuck.”

We’re on the case…

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